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A Morning Departure and a Brilliant Detour
After a quick breakfast and some last-minute packing, we loaded up the bus and prepared for the long trek south to Catania, Sicily. But this wasn’t just a simple travel day—we had a fantastic bonus built into the itinerary!
Having visited the area several years ago, I had suggested to Phil from Phil~italy that we make a detour to Scilla on our way to the ferry. It proved to be the ultimate way to break up the drive: a three-hour sightseeing stop and lunch in one of Calabria’s most breathtaking coastal spots.
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Ruffo Castle Views & Seaside Swordfish
Perched high on the rocky promontory, Castello Ruffo provided panoramic, jaw-dropping views looking straight across the Strait of Messina toward the coast of Sicily. Down below in the historic fishing district of Chianalea, we stopped for a iconic local treat: a fresh seaside swordfish sandwich (panino con pesce spada) eaten right by the water’s edge with an unbeatable view.
Crossing the Strait and First Glimpses of Mount Etna
From Scilla, it was just a quick drive down to the port for the short ferry ride across the Strait of Messina. Leaving the mainland behind, we reboarded the bus on the Sicilian side to finish the leg into Catania. As we drove down the coast, we were greeted by our very first glimpse of the legendary Mount Etna looming on the horizon.
We pulled into our home for the next leg of the trip, the luxurious Grand Hotel Baia Verde, beautifully set right along the rocky lava coastline.
A Catanese Culinary Welcome
After checking in and taking a quick breather to refresh, we gathered for a sumptuous Sicilian dinner that featured the absolute best classic flavors of Catanese cuisine:
Caponata: The perfect sweet-and-sour (agrodolce) eggplant starter.
Pasta alla Norma: Rich tomato sauce, crispy fried eggplant, fresh basil, and shaved salted ricotta.
Cassata: The quintessential Sicilian dessert layered with sweet ricotta, marzipan, and candied fruit.
It was an incredible transition day—bidding farewell to Calabria with swordfish by the sea and stepping into Sicily with a classic feast! Tomorrow, more Sicilian adventures await.
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Winding Mountain Roads and Arriving on the Coast
We set off from Lamezia Terme for a roughly two-hour drive down to the famous coastal town of Tropea. Most of the journey was smooth sailing along the autostrada, but as we neared the coast, the road gave way to a dramatic series of twists and turns, winding right down the mountainside toward the Tyrrhenian Sea.
It was a hot, sunny Calabrian day, and because large tour buses can’t navigate Tropea’s historic tight streets, we had a good long walk down into town from the bus parking lot.
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Sun, Sea, and a Giant Banana Split
Once we reached the heart of Tropea, the group split up to explore. Some of our group made their way down the steep cliffside stairs to the beach for a quick, refreshing swim in the turquoise waters, while others took a guided walking tour through the historic center to marvel at the famous views of the Santa Maria dell’Isola Monastery perched above the sea.
We took things at a slightly sweeter pace! Before lunch, we ducked into a shaded spot to cool off with a quick, ice-cold Spritz for me and a mammoth banana split for my wife—the perfect mid-morning treat on a scorching day.
Al Fresco Dining at Ristorante Il Marchese
For lunch, we gathered outside on the terrace at Ristorante Il Marchese. Eating al fresco under the Calabrian sun was fantastic, and the menu featured a great variety of main courses that catered to everyone’s tastes—from fresh pasta to local specialties.
After lingering over a great meal, we had about an hour of free time to wander the charming alleyways and shop before making the steep ascent back up to the bus.
Sicily Tomorrow!
It was a gorgeous, sun-soaked day along Calabria’s Coast of the Gods (Costa degli Dei). Tomorrow, we say goodbye to the mainland and head across the strait to Catania, Sicily—with a lunch stop in breathtaking Scilla along the way!
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A Relaxed Morning in Lamezia Terme
We took full advantage of a free morning in Lamezia Terme by taking a leisurely stroll down the main high street. Wandering in and out of local shops is always one of the best ways to get a feel for everyday Italian life. Along the way, we stumbled upon Italy’s equivalent of a dollar store—and, naturally, we couldn’t resist going in! We walked out with a few items we actually needed, alongside a few fun impulse buys we definitely didn’t need!
As we walked down toward the train station, we spotted a sight that made us do a double-take: the “Old Wild West Café.” It’s always amusing to see a slice of American culture transposed right into the heart of Calabria.
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A Quick Lunch & Spritz at Il Fornaio Angotti dal 1977
For lunch, we stayed close to our hotel and stopped at Il Fornaio Angotti dal 1977. This place was a wonderful local bakery and café, perfect for grabbing a quick bite and enjoying a refreshing afternoon Spritz while soaking in the neighborhood energy before our afternoon adventure.
Trekking up the Mountain to the Norman Castle
At 2:00 PM, we met our local guide for a walking tour up to the Norman-Swabian Castle Ruins (Castello Normanno-Svevo). When I say “up the mountain,” I mean UP the mountain!
It turned into a solid, rigorous two-hour hike winding up the hills of Nicastro. The climb was steep, but reaching the ancient stone fortifications overlooking the city and the valley made every step worth it. As a fun highlight, I even made time to snap a photo with a statue of my Norman ancestor, Emperor Frederick II!
Evening Dinner at Diana e Nettuno
After hiking back down to the hotel to refresh, we headed down the street for dinner at Ristorante Diana e Nettuno. Since seafood isn’t really my preference, it wasn’t my personal favorite meal of the trip, but the restaurant catered heavily to regional seafood specialties and everyone else in the group thoroughly enjoyed their dishes.
It was a fantastic, action-packed day balancing local town life with serious mountain history. Tomorrow, we’re off to the stunning coastal cliffs of Tropea!
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Artisanal Heritage at Lanificio Leo
We knew Day 6 was going to be action-packed right from the start! We kicked off the morning with a 60-minute scenic bus ride through the mountain landscapes to Soveria Mannelli to visit Lanificio Leo.
Lanificio Leo is a remarkable 150-year-old historic wool mill that has been lovingly revived by the original owner’s grandson. Before exploring the facility, we watched a fascinating RAI television documentary recounting the story of the mill’s modern revival. Afterward, we were treated to a private, personal tour guided by the owner himself, walking us through the historic looms and intricate manufacturing processes. Before heading back to the bus, we spent some time browsing their shop, which was filled with beautifully crafted, high-end woolen goods.
The 4-Hour Lunch: A True Calabrian Feast
Next, we took a 30-minute ride over to Platania for what was originally scheduled as a quick 90-minute lunch stop. However, in true Calabrian fashion, lunch at Ristorante La Scorciatoia stretched into a magnificent four-hour celebration of local food and culture!
Tucked away in the hills with sweeping views overlooking the valley, this spot was pure local magic—not a tourist in sight! The menu was a showcase of authentic regional dining:
Starters: An incredible selection of traditional local specialties, including an array of hot and cold appetizers highlighting typical regional products.
Main Courses: Hearty Bolognese lasagna, traditional farmhouse-style risotto, roasted potatoes, a crisp green salad, and an astonishing mixed grill served on a full meter-long platter!
Dessert: Fresh seasonal fruit.
Mushrooms and Medical History in Platania
With our incredible feast wrapping up much later than planned, our 3:00 PM appointment at the local science museum shifted back closer to 5:00 PM. We made our way over to the Museo Micologico “Valentino De Fazio” for an engaging, fast-paced guided tour. We explored the unique exhibits celebrating the region’s rich botanical and mushroom ecology, along with the fascinating historical medical museum housed within the facility.
What’s Next?
What a wonderful, slow-paced day spent discovering the heart of rural Calabria! Tomorrow, we stay closer to home to tour Lamezia Terme.
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Best-Laid Plans and Italian Train Realities
We started our fifth day in Italy with another wonderful breakfast at the hotel, full of excitement because we had a free morning planned. The highlight was supposed to be a long-awaited reunion with Antonia, an old friend from grammar school who moved to Italy seven years ago. We had been planning this meet-up for weeks, but just as we were finishing breakfast, the phone rang. “My train was canceled, and there isn’t another one running today,” Antonia told us.
Just like that, the Italian train system had other ideas! Antonia laughingly mentioned that when she first moved here, cancellations like this would drive her crazy, but now she knows that in Italy, it’s just the way it is. You learn to roll with the punches, smile, and pivot.
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A Farewell Walk Through Naples
With our morning suddenly wide open, we decided to make the most of our remaining time in Naples. We took one last leisurely stroll through the bustling shopping district, taking in the sights, sounds, and vibrant morning energy of the city. We also encountered Maradona alley where the famous footballer is idolized. After grabbing a quick bite to eat, it was time to head back, gather our luggage, and board the bus for the next leg of our journey: a five-hour drive south to Lamezia Terme in the heart of Calabria.
Welcome to Calabria: Lamezia Terme
The drive through the Italian countryside was scenic and relaxing. We pulled into Lamezia Terme around 7:00 PM and made our way to the Hotel Savant. After a smooth check-in, we had just enough time to freshen up before gathering with the group for an 8:00 PM dinner.
An Underground Feast at Il Casale Centro
Dinner was hosted at Il Casale Centro, and it turned out to be an incredible introduction to Calabrian cuisine. Tucked away in a unique, atmospheric, cave-like setting, the restaurant treated us to an astonishing, seemingly endless array of authentic Calabrian antipasti and starters. Each dish was packed with the bold, rich flavors the region is famous for.
Despite the morning’s schedule change, Day 5 ended up being a perfect transition day—full of good humor, stunning views, and an unforgettable meal under the stone arches of Lamezia. Next up, exploring more of Calabria!
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