Morning: Ceramic Craftsmanship in Caltagirone
We checked out of our hotel and set off across the interior of Sicily toward Palermo. Our first stop was the hilltop town of Caltagirone, world-famous for hand-painted ceramics (maiolica).
We visited a local ceramic factory to watch artisans shape raw clay and hand-paint vibrant geometric patterns. We also visited the iconic Scalinata di Santa Maria del Monte—a breathtaking 142-step staircase where every single step is faced with a unique ceramic tile pattern.
Lunch at Trattoria Anima (Caltagirone)
Located near the ceramic museum in Piazza Marcinnò, we enjoyed a classic meal at Trattoria Anima:
Starter: Mixed salad of tomatoes, radicchio, and arugula.
Main Courses: Strozzapreti pasta with swordfish, eggplant & mint cream; Palermitana-style swordfish with roasted potatoes; or a rustic vegetarian platter featuring caponata, eggplant parmigiana, and vegetable croquettes.
Dessert: Homemade Tiramisù.
Afternoon: Villa Romana del Casale (Piazza Armerina)
After spending the morning taking in centuries of history, we headed back to the hotel for a quick breather before our stomachs started reminding us it was lunch time. We asked the hotel concierge for an authentic, no-frills local spot. Without hesitation, he pointed us toward Trattoria paninoteca pizzeria B&B mamm e figl (a cozy local favorite known as Trattoria da Mamma), just a quick 10-minute walk down Via Carbonara.
“It’s where the locals go,” he promised. And boy, was he right.
What a find! We were treated to an authentic, three-course Feast of Naples—antipasto, primo, and contorno—for a mind-blowing €8.
I ordered:
Eggplant Parmigiana: Rich, savory, and cooked to perfection.
Gnocchi: Pillow-soft and tossed in a vibrant tomato sauce.
Meatballs: Two massive, melt-in-your-mouth polpette.
If you ever find yourself anywhere near Via Carbonara, trust me—do not skip this place!
Afternoon: Villa Romana del Casale (Piazza Armerina)
We reboarded the bus and drove to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Villa Romana del Casale near Piazza Armerina. This sprawling 4th-century AD Roman villa houses some of the best-preserved ancient floor mosaics in the world, including the famous “bikini girls” sports mosaic and extensive hunting scenes.
After a quick espresso stop at an Autogrill along the highway, we arrived in Palermo and checked into the magnificent Eurostars Centrale Palace Hotel, an 18th-century noble palace in the heart of the historic center. We took a short evening walk for a quick bite of ham and cheese before turning in.
Have you ever traveled somewhere to trace your family history? Let me know in the comments below!
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