Categories: Podcast

The Journey Home — Day 4 — Capracotta

Capracotta is a small but beautiful town in the mountains of Molise and was the ancestral home of my third great grandmother Duchess Capece Piscicelli. The town is about two hours from Naples, and one has to wonder on how long the trip took in a carriage from Naples in the 1800’s. On the way to Capracotta we had an interesting stop where Gianfranco showed us where Garibaldi met with the King to discuss unification. As Gianfranco explained, the official portrait shows them meeting on horseback, but the actual meeting took place in a bar!

Our next stop was the Samnite ruins outside the town of Pietrabbondante. The Samnite’s are considered by many to be the “first” Italians. The Samnite’s eventually were in conflict with Rome and held their own for many years until finally losing to the empire. They were highly advanced and when we sat in the 3000 year old stone amphitheater seats, we could not believe how comfortable they were.

We were given a tour by one of the official guides, who showed us the old and new temples. At the amphitheater the noted author and Samnite expert Nicola Mastronardi gave us a brief history of these brave and courageous people, represented by a bull “Figli Del Toro”. To learn more about the Samnite’s and Nicola, you can visit his website www.viteliu.com.

Nicola also presented us with an autographed copy of hishis book and a bronze plaque in the Samnite language. We also stopped in Pietrabbondante to meet the mayor who presented us with a commemorative plaque for the 100th anniversary of the statue of a Samnite warrior.

Next stop Capracotta! I honestly did not know what to expect. Our first stop was to the town hall, or as I like to say my third great grandmother’s home. We were brought in to meet the mayor Candido Paglione and assessor Pierino Di Tella and councilor Nicola Di Tanna and welcomed with open arms and given an armload of gifts and books. Everyone was enthusiastic and treated us like long lost family.

Next we went up to the church where a mass for first communicants was being held. At the end of the mass, the father Don Elio Venditti made a speech about the Capece Piscicelli family and their role in the church and the family’s love for Capracotta. After mass, he led us over to a side alter where vestments that my 3rd great grandmother had made in Naples and brought to the church in the 1800’s. It was explained to us that these were only a few and the best examples of the many different vestments that she hade made for the church. The vestments have the stemma of the Piromallo Capece Piscicelli embroidered on the back. There is also a portrait of the Madonna in the back commissioned by Duchess Beatrice.

We were also escorted by Francesco Di Rienzo, the president of the Friends of Capracotta, who besides giving us great insight into Capracotta’s history, provided translation services when required.

Lunch was next and we ate at a super restaurant in town L’Elfo. Chef Michele prepared a special menu for us, based off of the food that the shepard’s would cook as they moved the sheep and goats from Molise to Puglia. The first course was mashed potatoes and lentils, followed by pasta with truffles and finally sheep stew. And of course, excellent wine to go with the meal.

Before the meal, we met the Beniamino brothers, who have made it their mission to revive organic farming in the area and they presented us with a bag of their lentils to take home. you can find more information here. Before and after dinner we had some great entertainment, were everyone sang and dances.

Back in the van we made a quick trip to see the snow plow donated by Capracottese that migrated to the USA. Believe it or not this snow plow send to the town in 1950 is still in use today. Doctor Aldo Trotta gave us a presentation on his recollection of the arrival of the plow and how it saved the town many times over.

We also went to the Sartorial Art Museum which features the creations of Sebastiano Di Rienzo. Mr. Di Rienzo has hundreds of dresses designed by him and donated by the owners to display women’s fashion from the 1960’s onward.